An article From the American Kennel Club, http://budurl.com/z59v.

Taking your pet with you isn’t always the best solution, as there are hotel restrictions, travel-induced pet illness, and the potential for runaway pets to consider.

To provide a happy, safe experience for your pet during time away from home, consider boarding him. Start by checking out local kennels, and ask if they are members of the Pet Care Services Association, which requires certain professional and ethical standards for membership.

If you decide to board your English bull terrier and other dogs, contact the kennel well in advance. (During peak periods, such as the Christmas season and summer weekends, many facilities are booked up.) Ask as many questions as you like and be sure to inquire about immunization requirements. Many kennels will require a bordetella shot, to prevent kennel cough, along with rabies, distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus, and parainfluenza.

If you have a satisfactory first contact, the next step is to arrange a visit. This is essential. Observe general appearance of the kennel; security; safety; supervision and staff; sanitation; health care, such as dispensing medication and veterinary services; access to drinking water; feeding procedures; exercise area; provisions for animal comfort, such as temperature control, ventilation, adequate light, and protection from outside elements; and sleeping quarters.

If your English bull terrier hasn’t been boarded before, consider a short overnight stay before an extended stay—or even an afternoon of dog day care. This will help him get more comfortable with the experience. Once he becomes familiar with his new surroundings, chances are he’ll have a great time, not unlike a kid at summer camp.

After picking up your dog from his boarding kennel, don’t feed him or give him water for at least four hours after returning home. He will be overexcited, which may trigger food-gulping, vomiting, and diarrhea. If he seems thirsty upon arriving home, provide a few ice cubes rather than water. Then let him calm down and rest.

Home Sweet Home Considering a pet-sitter? References are key. Interview the candidate at length, well in advance, asking about qualifications and experience. Is the person familiar with your breed? Accustomed to handling puppies, and both smaller and larger breeds? Don’t entrust your English bull terrier to anyone you don’t believe to be highly competent and knowledgeable. If you have to pay more for better care, the money will be well spent and will give you greater peace of mind.

 

Reining is a judged event designed to show the athletic ability of a ranch-type horse within the confines of a show arena. In NRHA competition, contestants are required to run one of10 approved patterns, included in the NRHA handbook. Each pattern includes small slow circles, large fast circles, flying lead changes, rollbacks over the hocks, 360 degree spins done in place, and exciting sliding stops that are the hallmark of the reining horse.

The following are maneuvers as defined by the NRHA:

Walk-In
The walk-in brings the Shire horse from the gate to the center of the arena to begin the pattern. The horse should appear relaxed and confident. Any action which may create the appearance of intimidation, including starting and stopping, or checking, is a fault, which shall be marked down according to the severity in the first maneuver score.

Circles
Circles are maneuvers at the lope, of designated size and speed, which demonstrate control, willingness to guide, and degree of difficulty in speed and speed changes. Circles must at all times be run in the geographical area of the arena specified in the pattern description and must have a common center point.

There must be a clearly defined difference in the speed and size of a small, slow circle, and a large fast circle; also the speed and size of small, slow, right circles should be similar to the small, slow, left circles.
Likewise, the speed and size of the large, fast, right circles should be similar to the large, fast, left circles.

Spins
Spins are a series of 360-degree turns, executed over a stationary, inside hind leg. Propulsion for the spin is supplied by the outside, rear leg and front legs, and contact should be made with the ground and a front leg. The location of hindquarters should be fixed at the start of the spin and maintained throughout the spins. It’s helpful for a judge to watch for the horse to remain in the same location, rather than watching for a stationary inside leg. This allows for easier focus on the other elements of the spin (ie., cadence, attitude, smoothness, finesse, and speed).

Hesitate
To hesitate is the act of demonstrating the Shire horse’s ability to stand in a relaxed manner at a designated time in a pattern. In a hesitation, the horse is required to remain motionless and relaxed. All NRHA patterns require a hesitation at the end of the pattern to demonstrate to the judge(s) completion of the pattern.

Lead Changes
Lead changes are the act of changing the leading legs of the front and rear pairs of legs at a lope, when changing the direction traveled. The lead change must be executed at a lope with no change of gait and be performed in the exact geographical position in the arena specified in the pattern description. The change of front and rear leads must take place within the same stride to avoid penalty.

Rundowns and Runarounds
Rundowns occur in a pattern before a stop. They are runs through the middle of the arena and along the side and ends of the arena. Rundowns and runarounds should demonstrate control and gradual increase in speed to the stop.

Stops
Stops are the act of slowing the horse from a lope to a stop position by bringing the hind legs under the horse in a
locked position, sliding on the hind feet.

The Shire horse should enter the stop position by bending the back, bringing the hind legs further under the body while maintaining forward motion and ground contact and cadence with front legs. Throughout the stop, the horse should continue in a straight line while maintaining ground contact with the hind feet.

Rollbacks
Rollbacks are the 180-degree reversal of forward motion completed by running to a stop, rolling (turning) the shoulders back to the opposite direction over the hocks and departing in a canter, as one continuous motion. The NRHA handbook states no hesitation; however, a slight pause to regain footing or balance should not be deemed hesitation. The horse should not step ahead or back up prior to rolling back.

Backups
A backup is a maneuver requiring the horse to be moved in a reverse motion in a straight line at a required distance; at least 10 feet.

From the staff of http://www.discoverhorses.com/ For more information on reining, go to the National Reining Horse Association.

 

Guest article reprinted with permission from Dr Signe A. Dayhoff, http://www.loveyourcatsinnertiger.com/.

Take a second to think about it. When you have to give your Calico cat, or any other type of cat, medication in pill form, your cat isn’t likely to say, “Oh, goody. Just shove that sucker on down my throat.” Your cat probably feels lousy and isn’t the least bit interested in your trying to pry its mouth open.

If you’re like most human cat-companions, you want your Calico, or other breed of cat, well ASAP, but the hassle you have to go through makes it a seemingly futile, frustrating experience. Either your Calico, or other breed of cat, won’t open its mouth …or deftly spits out the pill before you’ve even seen it go in.

What happens all too often is you get very annoyed (after all, you’re trying to help and the least your cat could do is appreciate it and cooperate), give up, and simply hope for a recovery without the med.

But look at it from my perspective as a Calico cat. Would you want someone overpowering you, trying to nearly unhinge your jaw to toss something into your throat you fear you might choke on? I don’t think so!

Arden Moore, editor of monthly periodical “Catnip,” says there are a number of things humans can do to make the process less frightening for cats and less anger-producing for their human companions.

First, don’t approach pilling with anything but a calm, positive demeanor. Don’t think we can’t detect the set of your jaw. Be patient and know exactly what you’re going to do and how to do it. Positive begets positive.

Wrapping your cat in a towel, if necessary, and being behind it so it can’t back up will restrict your cat’s movements. I personally don’t like this but doing so may save you a trip to the ER for a transfusion and industrial-strength antibiotics.

The important thing to remember is that you want the experience to be as positive and purposeful as something this obnoxious can be. So add something yummy.

You can put a little favorite cat food or tuna juice on the pill or piller to make the insertion more acceptable. You open your cat’s jaw from the back with two fingers and tilt its head back a little. You’re aiming for the back of the tongue.

Pills don’t always go down right away and can stick to any moist surface. Boy, that can really create panic in all of us! So have a syringe handy with more tuna juice or water to help the pill go down and end the process with something positive.

Oh, yeah. Make sure you’re cat’s head is LEVEL when you squirt in some fluid so it won’t go down the wrong pipe causing your baby to start to choke.

I understand there are things called Pill Pockets that are cat yummies with a place to hide the capsule or pill. I’ve never had one but they may work. Personally, I’m not like a dog who’ll just swallow something (maybe, “anything”) whole.

Unless you’re really clever and the pill doesn’t taste terrible, you must know that I’ll have an idea you’re trying to put something over on me. Depending upon how bad I feel, I may forgive you but I also may stay suspicious when you try palming off this “treat” again.

Some vets will supply you with flavored pills in the form of liquids or pastes. While I may take it that way, do not think for one moment I don’t know what you’re doing.

By the way, after you pill your baby and give it some fluids, be sure to gently stroke its throat downward to help with swallowing and give some much-deserved ear, neck, and between-shoulder-blade scritching. Show you understand and empathize with your cat’s response to this procedure and you’re doing this with love, not malice.

You can give your cat its meds to make it better, lessen the trauma over control, and make your bond stronger by being as caring and patient as possible through this ordeal.

 

Published studies have confirmed that an excess of an amino acid called Homocysteine is a highly significant risk factor for heart disease and stroke. We’ve known this for a decade or so.

Homocysteine accumulates when there is insufficient B6, B12 and Folic Acid in the body to break it down for excretion. It is a natural byproduct of our daily metabolism, but must not accumulate.

For years, I have encouraged my clients to ask their doctor to test Homocysteine levels on your annual blood work. Now, new studies are confirming that elevated Homocysteine is a confirmed warning sign for Alzheimer’s as well as heart disease and stroke risk. This is incredible news! Studies show a five-fold increased risk for stroke with high Homocysteine, as well as a three-fold increased risk for Alzheimer’s with low levels of these three B vitamins.

What are we saying here? We are saying that B6 (in the right form), B12 (in the right form), and Folic Acid (in the right form), can greatly help prevent heart attacks, strokes and Alzheimer’s!

The big key is getting the right form and quantity of these vitamins. This is not as easy as it sounds.
First, let’s look at B12.

As we age, we lose our ability to digest B12 in our food, as it takes strong stomach acid and Intrinsic Factor to break it down from our meats and dairy. Anyone taking acid blockers for heartburn therefore cannot absorb B12. And anyone eating mostly vegetarian, at any age, will need B12 as well. In my opinion, it is important that everyone over the age of 65 take sublingual B12 long-term.

There is a common blood test for B12 that unfortunately is pretty worthless unless you are dramatically deficient in B12. I do not recommend taking that test. There is another, expensive B12 test available, if you ever truly need one. But B12 cannot hurt you, so taking it is an inexpensive option.

The correct form of B12 is Methylcobalamin, NOT Cyanocobalamin. Be clear on that. And B12 will generally not absorb from an oral multi-vitamin, although some of us can absorb it in its Methylcobalamin form (if they are young and make good stomach acid).

Next, let’s look at B6. B6 is called Pyridoxine. To get it into its usable form, the liver must break it down in a process called phosphorylation. Many of us are very bad phosphorylators! All the B vitamins we sell rely on P-5-P (Pyridoxal-5-Phosphate) as the correct form of B6. And we now have a fermented, fully end-chain, liquid B6 which I personally LOVE, and take daily as it is the ONLY B6 that has ever muscle-tested for me in many years.

Finally, there is Folic Acid. This B vitamin also has to go through multiple processes to be useful in the body. Folinic Acid is one preferred form, BUT we now know that 30% of us are genetically unable to break down Folic Acid into its final form.

I believe this is one of the true causes of heart disease and Alzheimer’s. If you are one of the 30%, you may be Folic Acid compromised, unless you get plenty from your food (which is always the right form, of course).

The new fancy version of Folic Acid is called 5-MTHF, (short for 5-Methyl-Tetra-Hydro-Folate). This is the only form we sell and recommend. I have personally taken the genetic test and am indeed one of the 30%.
Vegetables and fruits supply B6 and Folate, and liver gives folate too as well as my favorite “forgotten” Vitamin – Vitamin A. Animal products provide B12. But our body’s demand for these vitamins often exceeds supply. In our fast-paced, toxic world, full of prescription drugs in our food and water, toxins in the air and in our soaps, water and clothes, and all the other assaults of stress and insufficient sleep, we use up these important nutrients quickly.

The RDA (Recommended Daily Allowance) used on multi-vitamins, cereal boxes and the like, are woefully outdated, and suggest amounts that you must have to ward off serious disease or death. But of course, we seek wellness levels, not prevention of Beri-beri or Scurvy!

The best B vitamin product I know of is from Premier Research Labs, one of our favorite companies. Their patented Max-Stress B is a liquid, fermenting B vitamin supplement, with all the B’s in their final, end-chain form. In this form, you don’t need much to make a difference in the thousands of cellular processes that depend on them. The product is a little expensive, but if it will “only” help prevent heart disease, stroke and Alzheimer’s, it’s a worthy investment!

By Beverly Meyer, Clinical Aand Holistic Nutritionist, http://www.dietandhealthcenter.info

 

As an expert animal communicator many people come to me wanting help picking the right dog to bring home, the one that is a right fit to include in their family. A staggering percent of dogs end up in shelters and face possible euthanasia because their owners didn’t consider some important points before making the most important decision in their dog’s life.

Getting the wrong dog is the first and worst mistake you can make. Because once you bring them home, then you have to figure out how to deal with each other – and if you are fundamentally incompatible, then at best you’ll only be moderately happy. And in the worse cases, you have endangered not only your life and your family, but you may have also doomed the dog.

Take Time Interview Your Prospective New Dog First!

You wouldn’t hire an employee just because they were cute or reminded you of another employee you had years ago, would you? You wouldn’t take a job offer without knowing you would enjoy and could do the work, would you? And I hope you wouldn’t marry someone without knowing if they were the right person either.

Well, don’t just take the first dog that meets your eye either! These three points should always be considered when deciding if you and a dog are a good fit for each other:

• What lifestyle you actually live – and what your prospective dog will be happy with
• How much time you are willing and able to dedicate to your new companion — and whether that will be enough for them
• How much training and skill you currently have — and whether you need to learn more for the specific animal you are considering

These questions will serve as your benchmark for evaluating what kind of dog is actually suitable for you. You don’t want to compromise the quality of care you can provide for your new dog because you are unprepared. And the impact of your new canine companion will not interfere and inconvenience your way of life.

Create a Job Description For Your New Dog

Another way to determine if a dog is a good fit is by writing a “job description”. When you do this exercise, you may be surprised to uncover exactly what traits and characteristics you really want and need in your dog. This makes it easier to determine which dog has what it takes, and which do not.

Like humans, dogs have a purpose in life, and need to know what their role is. They need to feel as though they are fulfilling their “role.” Therefore, your job description must match up with your dog’s ability to fulfil his life purpose.

It is always best to take the time to communicate with your prospective dog candidate what they feel their purpose is directly. That way you know for sure what will make them happy, and if you are a good fit for each other or not, and if they are the right dog for your needs.

Certain breeds of dogs have unique character traits that make them more suitable for certain jobs and completely unsuitable for others. Take the time to research the breed you are interested in to get a thorough understanding of their basic character traits. That gives you a baseline to know what to expect and prepare for.

Another way that a dog’s innate character/personality traits affect everyone in your home is by their energy level. If you are a more laid back and peaceful person, a high energy dog would not be advisable for your personality. In this situation the result would be chaos in your home.

Don’t Buy That Puppy In the Window!

Also, be aware of where you buy your puppy or what background your new dog has. If you are getting your puppy from an individual rather than a store, then be sure and ask for references. Visit their facility. Talk to people who have gotten other dogs from prior litters.

Some unscrupulous or ignorant breeders produce puppies in large quantities with no regard for their genetics, health or environment. You need to know what types of problems you may be dealing with down the road resulting from any emotional or physical hardships from the time of their birth until they came to be with you.

I don’t recommend you ever consider getting a dog from a pet store unless you are willing to spend a great deal of time, energy and money dealing with significant health and behaviour problems.

Picking the right dog that will fit smoothly and happily into your home can take a bit of research, preparation and care – but the time will be well worth the effort. Impulsively making this very important decision can have disastrous consequences for everyone, especially your new dog who may face going to a shelter, or worse, if things don’t work out.

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Want to use my articles in your blog, ezine, or website? You can, as long as you include this complete blurb with it: Val Heart is called The Real Dr Doolittle, and teaches animal lovers how to connect and communicate from the heart. She specializes in resolving behavior, training, performance, health problems, euthanasia decisions. Free AnimalTalk QuickStart Course (value $79), The Real Dr Doolittle (podcast) Show now on iTunes! (210) 863-7928, email: contactval@valheart.com visit http://www.valheart.com

 
I love Pigs. Pigs are amazing animals, they’re brilliant, funny, kind and have many wonderful qualities.  I even had a Pig help heal me once of a migraine headache!I’m not a vegetarian, and our omnivore canine companions aren’t either.  So in addition to offering appreciation for where our food comes from, let’s talk about feeding pork to Greyhound, or any other dog breed.

Pork isn’t recommended for dogs and here’s why:

For one, PIGS are SCAVENGERS and will eat ANY kind of food,INCLUDING dead insects, worms, rotting carcasses, excreta includingtheir own, garbage, and other pigs.

There are many diseases carried from swine to man, particularly parasite infestations. Also, Pigs do not have sweat glands whichmean that toxins are not eliminated.

Although, Pork (this includes bacon, ham, pork chop, etc.) initself is as harmless to your Greyhound as chicken, beef or any other meat,there is a slight risk of your dog being infected with trichinosisby eating pork.

Trichinosis, also known as trichinellosis, is a worldwide, food-borne disease caused by an intestinal roundworm, uncommon in the United States.

Both humans and pets that eat raw or undercooked meat of infectedanimals can develop the disease. Undercooked or raw meat ofinfected animals contains the roundworm.

The disease can lead to muscle soreness and pain together withswelling of the upper eyelids in mild cases but can lead to moresevere symptoms.

If you would like to feed pork but want to take all necessaryprecautions, it is recommended that the pork be frozen for 3 weeksto kill the parasite.

The most important precaution is to make sure that all fresh porkand pork products are properly cooked.

Other raw and undercooked meat should also be avoided, especiallymeat from wild animals.

Another reason why dogs shouldn’t be fed Pork is the fact that Porkis very rich and contains a thick fat that is indigestible to your Greyhound.

It irritates their stomach and can cause them to become very ill (High fat content food causes pancreatitis and pork and turkey skinis the leading cause).

Information from Sharda Baker, http://www.dogfooddangers.com

 

Guest article reprinted with permission from Signe A. Dayhoff, Ph.D., http://www.catsmartcatlove.com/

I mentioned last week that my 18-year-old female was showing stress behavior in the presence of the bouncy little kitten recovering from a broken leg.

Stress behaviors often show themselves as a fight or flight. But hers did not. Instead, it presented itself as a displacement behavior: grooming.

As you can imagine, grooming can be calming and reassuring to your Manx cat or other cat breeds. But when stress is involved, this behavior may go to extremes.

What is usually a normal behavior can become repetitive, prolonged, and ultimately be self-destructive. Squeaky has been licking herself bald on her tummy and back legs.

Were she to continue to lick these specific spots, she could break down the skin and cause an infection. What I’ve had to do is provide her with her own space for part of the day. This is a room that is quiet and away from the other elderly Manx cat, the kitten, and any other cat. I use the guest bathroom.

During that time she may be alone for awhile to enjoy the peace and quiet (of course, she has all her basics available there). But mostly I’m there providing her with my undivided attention.

First we play. I use toys that she does not associate with other cats-making them hers alone. The “toy” could be something as simple as a box or paper bag.

Our time together is both stimulating and distracting. After each 20-minute play therapy session, I calm her down with brushing and petting.

By the time she returns to the master bedroom with the other elderly cat and the kitten, she is calmer, feeling that she is (1) getting the special attention she deserves and (2) has a “panic room” to which she can escape during these kitten-induced stressful times.

When you have no other place to take your cat with excessive licking issues, you can look for ways to give her or him extra tender loving care in their current environment. This may be a bit tricky because you do not want to make the other elderly cat jealous or ignored.

Remember: While you are addressing your Manx cat’s stress behavior, you also need to determine what is causing the stress. It may or may not be obvious.

Either way, you will want to remove or moderate it in order to help alleviate your cat’s distress reaction.

 

During my many years of getting hit on at bars, going on horrible blind dates, poring over profiles on Match.com and coming home to an empty apartment, I’ve had plenty of good, supportive friends.
But, back when I was dogless, little did I know that no one’s companionship would compare to my maltese/ shih-tzu/ yorkie mix, Cookie’s. Man’s best friend? Maybe. But I think a dog is a single girl’s best friend. Here’s why.

1. They offer unconditional love.
A guy left you standing in front of a bar while he went to get his cell phone from the car – and never came back? (It really happened to me!) No worries – your puppy will greet you with open paws and without judgment, even though you left her alone to go out with a creep.

2. They feed your nurturing instincts.
I’m maternal by nature, but am I ready to have a baby? Not alone! So Cookie is my baby. I get such fulfillment from taking care of her, brushing her, bathing her, playing with her, snuggling with her, showing off pictures of her and even singing to her. Yup, her ears flop up when she hears the Sesame Street classic, “C is For Cookie.”

3. In some ways they can be better than babies.
Sure, dogs like Yorkshire terriers are a lot of responsibility. But if you get a last-minute happy hour invitation after work, they’ll happily continue their nap for a few more hours without you. No worrying about who’ll relieve the nanny or calculating how much extra you’ll have to pay the babysitter if you dare to indulge.

4. They help you get in shape.
When I’d get home from a night of dinner and drinking pre-Cookie, I’d crash immediately with a full belly. Now I need to walk the pup. We’ll sometimes walk for over an hour and afterward, I feel so much healthier than I used to.

5. They attract other dogs…
As I type this post, I have three dogs running around my living room: Cookie; her Pomeranian friend, Szantos, who we met in the neighborhood last November; and his 4-month-old sister, Amiry. And when I finish typing, I’m jumping right back in to that doggie play group to get lots of snuggles and licks.

6. And girlfriends…
Szantos and Amiry’s mom is my friend, Christina. She lives two blocks away and has been my wingwoman and sounding board since Cookie and Szantos introduced us last year. She even came to Cabo with me in the Spring when I was dying to get away and all my college friends were planning trips with their husbands and kids (In case you were wondering, our dogs stayed with their respective grandparents).

7. And boyfriends.
I’ve met plenty of men who’ve used Cookie as an innocent conversation starter. She’s a man magnet! But no one knows the matchmaking power of a puppy better than Karina Gilbert, who met her husband, Joshua, at an NYC dog park. “That fateful morning at 7am, my dog, Ennie, was just waiting for another dog to come play with her. A handsome guy eventually showed up with his Labrador.” And the rest is history.

8. They broaden your horizons.
Sick of dating websites? Hanging around dog parks, obedience classes and pet stores gives you a whole new dating pool – and guys can’t lie about their height if you meet them in person.

9. They’re great screeners.
When I meet a guy who loves Cookie, thinks it’s cute when she snuggles with us in bed, and is always happy to walk or play with her, I know he’s sweet, caring, easygoing and lovable. If Cookie loves him, he’s a keeper. And if he has a dog of his own, then he’s clearly mature and responsible enough to keep a growing creature alive and thriving. I smell husband material.

10. They make you happy to come home.
Nothing is more depressing than an empty apartment (and an empty bed) when you crave company. Now that I have Cookie, I can’t wait to run home to her every day – and cuddle up next to her at night. She curls up next to my belly in the “little spoon” position and all is calm in this dog-eat-dog world.

By Ilisa Cohen, http://budurl.com/uk4b

 

When Mr. Magnolia Zip “Ricky” to his friends – was in the western pleasure show pen, his friends and competitors called him “Gangster Rick” because of his intensely focused attitude – and because few of those competitors managed to stand up to his assaults. The Zippo Pine Bar gelding accumulated a rap sheet of championships and top-10s at the AQHA World and Youth World championship shows and the All American Quarter Horse (Qh) Congress that few could rival, most recently with owner Dennis Pathroff.

But in 2008, Dennis gave his 18-year-old champion gelding over to a new calling as a therapeutic riding horse at the Victory Junction Gang Camp in Randleman, North Carolina. There, Ricky’s confidence has served him well in his newest and possibly most important job -bringing joy to sick or disabled children and their families.
Victory Junction was started by the family of one of Ricky’s former show partners, Montgomery Lee Petty – the daughter of famed NASCAR driver Kyle Petty and the granddaughter of ” The King” Richard Petty.

Victory Junction is a year-round camp that serves children, ages 6 to 16, with a variety of health issues. Campers and their families attend free of charge, as their fees are paid through donations to the camp. During the summer, the camp offers weeklong, disease-specific sessions with up to 128 kids per session. During the fall, winter and spring, family weekends are offered, with 32 families per weekend.

The idea for the camp formed in 1999 when Adam Petty- son of Kyle and Pattie and brother to Montgomery Lee – participated in a charity ride for a similar camp. When Adam was killed in 2000, his parents were inspired to fulfill his dream and began working with actor Paul Newman and his Hole in the Wall camps. Pattie is the chairwoman of the board of directors for Victory Junction.

Since opening the doors June 20, 2004, the camp has hosted more than 10,000 campers from 47 states and three countries. In May 2009, ground was broken for a second location in Kansas City, Kansas. Spread over 84 acres of wooded forest, the original Victory Junction’s NASCAR theme is everywhere – from photos of Adam, his father and grandfather scattered in the welcome center to the car hood sounding boards and spark plug wall decor in the theater. Camp includes a huge variety of activities for kids no matter their level of disability, including a water park, indoor softball field, a seven-acre lake with fishing access via boat and indoor dock and a NASCAR race shop- and a fully staffed hospital just in case it’s necessary.

While the camp has about 75 full-time employees, it is brought to life by volunteers. They range from corporate sponsors who donate buildings, to individuals across the country who send unique, hand-crafted quilts or knit afghans and teddy bears that are placed on each camper’s bunk bed to use and take home. Doctors and other professionals donate their time and expertise to help campers, and all the horses at the camp are donated.

The equine center resembles a circus tent from the outside and is a barn-in-the-round with stalls facing into a center area, allowing employees to see every animal and every child at all times. The kids are free to interact with horses, ponies and various farm animals. Small groups are taken for rides in an attached temperature-controlled riding arena with rollup doors (for an outdoor riding experience if weather and health conditions allow). The camp’s 40 Qh and other horses rotate, with 10 staying at the camp and the rest allowed vacation time at the Pettys’ nearby ranch, where the four-legged volunteers unwind in the pasture. The American Qh may be used for traditional hippotherapy, or they might just provide a sympathetic ear for their camper friends.

By: Andrea Caudill for America’s Horse Daily, http://www.AmericasHorseDaily.com

 

There are many different dog health insurance providers available. The internet is a good place to shop around. You can also talk with your veterinarian to see if he or she has any recommendations.

There are several questions to ask yourself and the prospective dog health insurance providers. The following is a list of several questions to ask before purchasing insurance.

Answering these questions will help you identify what is most important for you and your Yorkshire terrier.

Questions to Ask Yourself:
How old is my dog? (If you don’t know, get an estimate from your vet.)
What is the life expectancy of my dog?
What kinds of health problems are common within my dog’s particular breed?
What are the average costs of the health problems identified in the question above?
How much money can I budget a month for my dog’s health needs?

Questions to Ask the Dog Health Insurance Providers:
What different dog insurance packages are available?
Some providers offer different packages based on types of coverage. Some also offer different packages based on whether your pet is a cat or dog, and if it is a senior pet.
What is covered under each plan?
Make sure that you clearly understand what services and prescriptions are covered under each plan. The providers should offer you a clear breakdown of the coverage.
This is very important.

What veterinarians can be used?
Find out if there are any restrictions to which licensed veterinarians you can use. Typically, you can use any since most programs require you to pay the costs up front, and then you’ll be reimbursed.

How do I obtain a quote?
Most pet insurance providers offer quote estimates on their web-sites. You will complete a questionnaire that asks for information about your pet such as breed, age, sex, medical history, etc.
You will receive a quote summary and then you can compare with different dog health insurance providers.
Is there a waiting period?

Usually, there is a waiting period from the time you enroll until the time your policy is approved (approximately 10-14 days). Also, make sure you find out if there is a waiting period from the time your policy is approved until the time it takes effect.

What are the payment options?
Find out the payment options from each provider. Are they monthly, quarterly, yearly, or other?
How do I file a claim?
You usually need to supply the provider with the claim form completed and signed by the licensed veterinarian. This form is usually available on the provider’s web-site.
What is the payment arrangement?

Typically, you are required to pay the veterinarian at the time of service, and then you file the claim to be reimbursed.

What are the health insurance providers’ cancellation policies?

Make sure you understand how you can cancel the insurance policy and if the service provider can ever cancel the policy (for example, due to age.) Usually, you can cancel at any time. Some may have a money back guarantee (for example, a 10-day money back guarantee.)

When NOT to Use Dog Health Insurance

It is not as beneficial to use a dog insurance policy towards routine care of your Yorkshire terrier  or any other dog (for example, vaccinations and parasite prevention treatment). It is not cost-effective for you to apply insurance to routine care because this should be already accounted for in your budget.

Dog health insurance is tailored for those medical costs, accident expenses, and illness protection that you did not plan for. Obtaining dog insurance is something that every pet owner needs to decide for himself. Certainly, you want to provide your Yorkshire terrier with the best veterinarian care possible.

Information from http://www.easy-dog-obedience-training.com/newsletter/choose-insurance.php

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