I was listening to a health show on the radio the other day and the host was interviewing a veterinarian on dog diseases and their prevention. He mentioned that one of the biggest problems for our pets is obesity. He went on to talk about a special canine weight loss diet; how nutritious it is and how your pet won’t be hungry or even know they are on a diet.

I found this quite amazing and almost humorous because if he would not have mentioned the words “pet” or, “dog” I would have sworn he was talking about human obesity and some miracle diet program that he was endorsing.

What is so interesting to me is that while the reasons for obesity are complex, there are some similar components in both humans and animals. The main aspect being family obesity and the emotional use of food for showing love and bonding.

Now please understand, I grew up in the perfect model of the obese family and in no way am blaming anyone that may be reading this. We all do the best we can in the moment and my writing is to raise awareness and not point blame. As a matter of fact, blame would only lead to an increase of bad feelings and not to an open curiosity which gives us the possibility of change.

In my family, food was used as a treat, for entertainment, for a symbol of love and when withheld, a symbol of punishment. This process is something I have had to work on continuously to not replicate with my own family.

When I see an obese dog or cat in addition to feeling badly for the animal, I am curious about its story… How is food used to communicate with this animal?… What are the motives of the owners? I have been at times flabbergasted, seeing animal owners laughing at their obese animal or putting the reason for the obesity on the animal…… something like ….”Scruffy” just can’t stop eating. When I hear this I think, “Are you trying to tell me that while you’re away at work ‘Scruffy’ is in the kitchen baking goodies or at night sneaking down and finishing off that apple pie in the fridge?”

My wife and I have been dog owners for the last 20 years, the last dog being a blond lab, so I understand that almost irresistible urge to show friendship and love with food. However, just like a parent/child food relationship, the owner/pet relationship carries responsibilities. Because of this, I monitor my use of food in my communication very carefully.

I do not suggest abstinence (no treats) unless that is something that works for you. If you do have an obese animal what I do suggest is awareness and asking yourself what is your motivation in over-feeding your animal…. , and how else could you show your love in a more healthy way? An extra walk, snuggle or play time?

Steve Kiges – http://www.theunreasonablelife.com ©2010

For information on food addictions and becoming one of the 5% that keep lost weight off for life, visit: http://www.theunreasonablelife.com

Housekeeping is a casual affair for some and a major event for others. Adopting a dog can help to transform your house into a home, but your new four-legged friend could also turn your home into a mess. With a little thinking ahead, you can have a happy pet and a clean home! Here are some tips for achieving just that:

Clean Pets = Clean House

* Keep your dogs well-groomed. Frequent brushing outdoors will keep indoor shedding to a minimum. If need be, trim excess hair so that dirt and waste won’t cling.

* Keep your dog’s nails trimmed, filing down any edges that could shred upholstery.

* Wipe off your dog’s jowls and long, floppy ears after each meal.

* Placing a large, absorbent place mat under food and water bowls will make for easier clean-up.

Furniture

* Place machine-washable slip covers over lightly colored furniture that is more apt to show stains.

* Vinyl and leather furniture is easy to clean. Just make sure your dog’s nails are trimmed, as they can damage those materials.

* Place a comfy bed for your dog in a designated room or corner. Cover the bed with a machine-washable throw and train your dog that this is the only piece of furniture they are allowed to frequent.

Floors

* You can easily wipe away dog waste on sheet linoleum, tile and Pergo® floor surfaces. Use polyurethane to seal hardwood floors in order to prevent lingering urine odor.

* Try to use washable area rugs instead of wall-to-wall carpeting. If urine soaks into carpet backing, it can be impossible to clean. A carpet care product that targets pet stains can prove indispensable if you have carpeting.

* Roll up vegetable-dyed oriental rugs until your new dog is fully house-trained. If rugs have fringe, don’t roll them back out until your dog is done teething, which can take 8 months or more.

* Place a washable area rug by the door and keep a towel handy to wipe down your pet’s paws and/or body on rainy or muddy days.

Windows

* Fabric shades, café curtains, and valances are great window treatments for dog-friendly homes.

* Steer clear of pooling drapery, vertical blinds, tassels, and long cords that can be strangulation hazards, or might bring things crashing down, should your dog try to pull or climb them.

* Mini-blinds can get bent beyond repair when they block a curious dog’s view. Think twice about using these as window treatments.

Walls

* Washable vinyl-backed wallpaper is easier to clean than paper-backed wallpaper.

* Use washable semi-gloss paint in areas where your new dog will frequent. This is important for owners of loose-jowled dogs, who are more likely to shake spittle onto the walls.

* Paint or hang a washable wall covering on the lower half of walls that have antique wallpaper or fabric wall treatments.

Shandra Baker, author of Dog Food Dangers, shares with us today some vital information on how your dog can be suffering with gluten allergies and what you can do about it.

Gluten allergy, medically described as celiac disease, is a fairly common food allergy in canines.  It can develop at any point in a dog’s life and manifests a variety of symptoms, including skin and bowel problems.

After diagnosis, a lifelong change in diet is usually required to treat the condition.

But what is GLUTEN?

Gluten is a protein found in wheat and many other flours that’s often added to commercial pet food. Dogs, like humans and other animals, can develop a sensitivity or allergy to it if through repeat exposure or as an acute reaction to a single exposure.

Gluten allergy causes the inflammation and destruction of the interior of the small intestine, thus preventing nutrients and vitamins from being properly absorbed.  Moreover, gluten irritates the large intestine, causing colitis, which results in bowel problems. Food allergies at large account for about 10 percent of dog allergies.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS?

Symptoms of gluten allergy include itchy, flaky, and subsequently irritated skin as well as upset bowels.  Other symptoms include hypertension, weight loss, lack of energy and changes in behavior. In the past, the only way to diagnose a food allergy was to replace the existing diet with one containing none of the same ingredients. Today, a simple blood test can indicate an allergy, although the exclusion diet is still widely employed.

WHAT TO DO?

Gluten is ubiquitous in processed pet food and treats and is sometimes omitted from listing on ingredient labels because of its implicit presence in other substances (this includes wheat, cereals and products of animal or vegetable origin). As such, foods explicitly labeled gluten free or homemade meals are the best option for dogs with gluten allergy.

A true allergy cannot but cured, thus the allergen must be removed from the animal’s diet and avoided. A lifelong food can gradually become an irritant or even an allergy over time, thus making initial diagnosis difficult. While a homemade food is the best option for pet owners, there are many varieties of gluten-free diets, although getting a dog to change foods can be difficult.

Other common food allergies in dogs include corn, soya, preservatives, beef, pork, chicken, milk, eggs and fish.

You may well know the feeling of staring at your dog while he or she stares at the food dish, sighs, and looks at you with an expression which clearly says “You expect ME to eat THAT?”

At those moments, you may even be wondering why you simply don’t just get a cat, which would at least be coming to you with the reputation of being a picky eater.

Most of us dog owners have found themselves in the same situation at one time or another. And because you are a kind-hearted sort, your dog knows that if it waits long enough, sure enough, something really tasty shows up.  Mission accomplished. Owner happy, dog happy and dog just won round one. Many owners are fixated on their dog’s eating habits. That only makes things get worse and worse.

Once your dog knows it can wrangle something else out of you, it will keep on keeping on until it gets right out of hand. And if you think feeding him later will be easier, think again. It only gets worse. This type of behavior needs to be nipped in the bud immediately. Besides, who is the Alpha dog here anyhow – YOU or the dog?

Owners of finicky eaters can get caught up constantly changing their dog’s diet to try to get them to eat. This only makes your dog hold out to see if anything better is being offered. And then you have more problems to sort out.

And if you do make sudden dog diet changes, this can cause digestive upsets for your dog. Any diet change needs to be done slowly. Add a small amount of new food to your pet’s current food and gradually increase that amount while decreasing the amount of the current food over a seven to ten day period.

But right now what we are discussing is NOT catering to a fusspot – so changing foods constantly isn’t going to help matters any.

Have you ever purchased a whole stack of types of dog food (canned and dry) to let your dog figure out what he likes? Not a good idea, because if he doesn’t like anything, three guesses who will be running out and trying to find something better. Right – you!

What can you do?

The basic rule of thumb is if that any dog which gets hungry enough they WILL eat no matter what is in the bowl. Have patience and ye shall be rewarded. Don’t hover, plead, cajole, hand feed, or change the food. Just leave it in the bowl and —- WAIT!

The value of having your dog on a timetable and on a regular dog diet can’t be over emphasized. Dogs thrive on routine, and besides, if you don’t establish a routine and stick to it, your dog will implement one himself. Dogs without routines and a “pack leader” take over the roles themselves and you won’t like the consequences.

If you feed regularly at the same time (or close to it) daily then when the food hits the floor then your dog will be there to eat it – and will in fact learn to anticipate being fed. If you never thought dogs (or other animals) could tell time, try missing your regular feeding time one day.

Here is the most effective thing to do when you feed a finicky dog. Feed at the regular time and if they do not eat the food within 15 minutes, you take the bowl up and put the food back in the fridge. The next time that bowl comes out and goes down on the floor is the second feeding of the day. Period! Watch how fast your dog catches on to the fact if he doesn’t eat when the food is there, it’s GONE.

If your pal is getting adequate amounts of a palatable and nutritious food two times a day, you have fulfilled your responsibilities as far as feeding is concerned. Don’t let doggie involve you in a battle of wills like a spoiled child who won’t go to bed without first having ice cream. That food dish is YOUR domain!

Every dog owner who is concerned about what they are feeding their dog needs to read the book, Dog Food Dangers, by Shandra Baker at http://budurl.com/dogfooddangers.

Shandra Baker, author of Dog Grooming Secrets, brings us this important information on hot spots and what do about it if they show up on your dog(s).  Thank you Shandra!

HOT SPOTS

Hot spots are surface skin infections caused when populations of normal skin bacteria grow and overwhelm normal resistance.

They are generally circular patches that lose hair, can be swollen, may exude a smelly pus, and can be painfully itchy, causing the dog to scratch, lick, or bite to the point of self-mutilation.

Untreated hot spots can spread and provoke a normally even-tempered dog to growl or nip when touched.

These troublesome sores can seem to arise in a matter of hours with no warning, but they do tend to follow a pattern that helps in predicting their occurrence.

Dogs most susceptible to hot spots are those with heavy coats and histories of allergies, ear infections, flea infestations, irritated anal sacs, and grooming problems such as hair tangles and mats, but any dog can develop this infection.

http://www.doggroomingsecrets.org

Dogs in warm, humid climates may develop hot spots when they shed their undercoats if the dead hair is trapped next to the skin, and dogs with behavior problems may mutilate themselves by licking and thus encourage an infection to become established.

The most common locations for hot spots are the legs and feet, flanks, and rump areas that can be reached by licking or biting but these localized infections can also appear on ears, neck, and chest if the dog is continually scratching.

CAUSES OF HOT SPOTS

There is usually an inciting factor to initiate the extreme licking and scratching behavior. Look for fleas, mites, or other external parasites, an insect sting or bite, allergies or injury (skin wound, scrape, etc.).

Some animals have been known to “start” a hot spot out of boredom or stress-related psychological problems.

TREATING A HOT SPOT

Two approaches are necessary for dealing with hot spots: treat the sore and remove the underlying cause to prevent recurrences.

* Trim the hair around the sore to prevent further spread of the  infection and expose the edges of the lesion.

* Wash the area in a mild water-based astringent or antiseptic.

* Be prepared to use antibiotics or cortisone if the washing does  not give results.

* Consult your vet

According to some sources using ointments or creams are discouraged because they can seal the hot spot which will hinder the recovery.

Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Target, Home Depot, Foreman’s Garden Supply and other garden supply stores contains a  lethal ingredient called ‘Theobromine’. It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die.

Although the mulch had NO warnings on the label, upon further investigation on the company’s web site, …this product is HIGHLY toxic to dogs and cats.

Cocoa Mulch is  manufactured by Hershey’s, and they claim that “It is true that studies have shown that 50% of the dogs that eat Cocoa Mulch can suffer physical harm to a variety of degrees (depending on each individual dog).  However, 98% of all dogs won’t eat it.”

Snopes site gives the following information: http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoamulch.asp

Theobromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or baker’s chocolate which is toxic to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.

There are various reasons why dog owners purposely breed their Labrador Retrievers. One reason is that their dog is up to breed standard and they want to produce a litter. Some dog owners want to improve the breed. In some instances unknown to the owner, breeding may also take place despite the fact that dogs may be carefully confined when they are in season. No matter what the reasons are, it is important to know the signs if your Lab is in the family way.

A female dog can only become pregnant if she is bred during her heat cycle. Canine cycle, referred to as the estrous cycle, has four stages. The first stage is proestrus in which the female dog is attractive to males, but not receptive to them. This stage generally lasts six to eleven days. This stage has already ended when the dog becomes receptive to the male and will stand to be bred.

The next stage is the estrus, the actual fertile stage in which the female dog is now receptive to male. This stage lasts five to nine days. This stage has ended when the female is not receptive to the male anymore. The third stage is the diestrus, a non-receptive time.  The last stage of the estrous cycle is the anestrus in which no ovarian activity took place.

Dog pregnancy generally lasts 60-65 days. Early signs of pregnancy in dogs include loss of appetite, sudden decrease in activity, nipple growth and behavioral changes. As the pregnancy progresses, further signs occur.

Three to four weeks into the pregnancy, you will notice an increase in appetite and weight gain by one month. Around five weeks, your dog’s nipples will develop and she will begin to look broader. Increase in abdomen size can be seen and uterine swelling around the placental sites that feels like firm and discrete lumps exist. During the last few weeks of pregnancy puppy movement can be felt and milk production begins.

Dog pregnancy can also be detected through x-rays, ultrasound or a blood test.  A blood test can be done by a veterinarian 30 days after being bred. In some cases, a female dog will display signs of dog pregnancy without actually being pregnant. That is why it is important to visit your veterinarian to confirm the pregnancy and that proper care will be given. Dog owners should always remember that their pregnant Labrador Retrievers need special care to make sure that they are ready when the time comes.

Richard Cussons writes articles about Labrador Retrievers and other dog breeds. Discover essential Labrador training tips at labradorsavvy.com.

What is Dog First Aid? 

First aid involves removing the dog from the source of harm, preventing the worsening of the condition, restoring vital bodily functions, alleviating pain and distress, and helping recovery to begin.

Over-enthusiastic first aid can do more harm than good. Limit yourself to determining the seriousness of the dog’s condition, providing essential treatment, and then getting immediate professional help.

It is a good bet to create a pre-assembled pet first aid kit, and have it handy in case of emergency. Basic first-aid equipment should include:

1.  Adhesive tape

2.  Bacitracin ointment or antiseptic cream

3.  Bandages

4. Charcoal suspension – Administered orally to adsorb certain drugs or toxins to prevent or reduce their systemic absorption

5.  Cotton

6.  Diarsanyl for stomach soothing and rebalancing

7.  Ecotrin (or generic) coated aspirin  for pain or fever

8.  Gauze

9.  Hydrogen peroxide

10.  Kwik stop powder or cornstarch for bleeding nail/faulty pedicure administered by owner

11.  Muzzle

12.  Pepcid AC  for upset stomach

13.  Petroleum jelly

14.  Rectal thermometer

15.  Rubbing alcohol

16.  Scissors

17.  Tweezers

First Aid 101

The following steps should be following during any emergency situation with your pet.

1.      Remove dog from source of harm

2.      Prevent worsening of the condition

3.      Restore vital bodily functions

4.      Alleviate pain & distress

5.      Provide essential treatment

6.      Get immediate professional help

7.      Don’t panic, keep your wits about you

8.      Never use hydrogen peroxide or ointment on a wound

You can learn more about dog care in (yes dog care!) in The Dog Food Secrets.

There are some specific homeopathic remedies that are making a difference in treating the more common types of cancer, such as lymphosarcoma, skin tumors, and hemangiosarcoma.

In reading about bladder cancer and treatment options, Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM, came across some very interesting studies.  Many of the researchers talked about how to prevent bladder cancer, (and other common cancers) in the first place.

The findings included very common sense things!

1)  Avoid ingesting toxins that produce cancer.  In people smoking is the big one, while in pets, food and environmental toxins are more important.

Most dog and cat foods have piles of artificial colors, flavors and preservatives – many of these have direct links to cancer.  Especially things like bladder cancer as the kidney filters many toxins and concentrates them in the bladder.

2)  Diet – for people the simple long term solution is to eat more nutrient rich fruits and vegetables.  The same advice applies to your dog or cat.  If you are wanting to avoid cancer in your pet, then feed them better quality food.

Less toxins, more nutrients!

3) Water – the last big suggestion for preventing bladder cancer was to have people drink more water.  Mroe water means more dilute toxins, and they leave your body quicker.  A real inexpensive way to have your pet not et cancer is to get them to consume more water.

For cats, use canned food, for dogs, moisten their dry food.

Are there more things to do?  Yes!  But, if you only made the top 3 changes, then the incidence of bladder cancer would drop by 60-70%.  And, if you make the same changes with your dog or cat, the chance of them getting cancer will drop dramatically, perhaps by 50%

Dr. Jones is the author of the most amazing animal home care book on the market today – Veterinary Secrets Revealed – find out more…

I’m sure that some of you may have already read that garlic can be bad for your dog.  However, my friend Shandra Baker, author of many books related to dog health and training, has done her research on this topic thoroughly.

Shandra finds that garlic is not poisonous to dogs.  Although the garlic does belong to the same family as the onion there is significant difference between the two.

Onions can trigger hemolytic or “Heinz factor” anemia (where circulating red blood cells burst) through its high concentration of thiosulphate.  On the other hand, unlike the onion, garlic does not contain the same concentration of the said compound.

It is said that for garlic to be dangerous to your dog, you would have to feed your dog a couple of whole bulbs a day on an ongoing basis.  Many dog owners even use garlic as a supplement and an effective flea repellent.

Shandra would also like to clear up some misconceptions regarding the dangers of the tomato fruit and its plant.

Actually, a ripe tomato fruit isn’t bad for you dog, the danger lies with an unripe tomato and the tomato plant.  This can also be true for humans too.  So, if you do plan on feeding your dog tomatoes make sure that the tomato’s leaves and stems are removed and that the tomato that you are feeding your dog is ripe.

Shandra Baker is the author of Dog Food Dangers – check it out today!