Category: Horse Talk

Safe Hoof Soaking Techniques for Chronic Hoof Infections

By Ray Tricca, SBS Equine Products

Soaking the hoof can be an effective way of treating against chronic infections, but there can be serious consequences if done carelessly. Experts have recommended some simple rules that can help you avoid a hoof soaking disaster.

Reasons Why Soaking Can Be Dangerous
Soaking the hoof in any liquid for an extended period of time can wash away the natural protective coating provided through transpiration. In time soaking can weaken the entire hoof structure and damage healthy hoof tissue. Since many commercial preparations and harsh household products may work well on hard surfaces by burning pathogens to death, they can also seriously harm to new hoof tissue. Keep in mind that a healthy hoof will grow out an astonishing rate of 3/8” a month. Damaged cells will no grow out like healthy tissue. Damage can be long term or chronic.

A Conservative Approach to Soaking
Most infections in the hoof are difficult to treat because they are hard to reach. There are many nooks and crannies for pathogens to hide, and you cannot easily detect their presence behind the hoof wall.  Another issue is that the infection may be a particularly aggressive form of fungus or anaerobic and aerobic bacteria, or any combination of them. How do you kill the broad spectrum of pathogens by soaking them without harming sensitive hoof tissue? How often and how long a time period is it safe to soak? How much soak is required to be effective? How do you prevent waste or spilling of the soak? To find out answers to these questions we asked the researchers who have worked on these issues.

In the last decade there was a world wide epidemic called white-line disease. Two companies collaborated to develop a new delivery system for treating the disease and other hoof infections.  They recognized that soaking the hoof could be a simple and effective way of treating the hoof against infections, if done correctly. They recognized too, that there may be serious consequences if the soaking was done incorrectly. Several months later both companies developed products that would work in harmony with the other’s .  Even after ten years, both products are still being used together as a successful treatment option.

Another breakthrough component was the development by SBS and Davis of a fiber matrix pad which is included inside the boot. The pad is washable and reusable. It’s purpose is to hold the Soak in place. The pad reduces evaporation and helps to prevent the liquid from sloshing around and spilling out. The fibers also wick the key ingredients to the affected areas of the feet. This reduces the danger of over soaking because only the pad needs to be saturated with the Soak, not the entire hoof.

A few years ago SBS came up with a non-liquid soaking material called Sav-A-Hoof Med-i-sole. It is a gel. When the pad is saturated with the gel, it makes the chances of over soaking almost impossible. (The product is not to be confused with Sav-A-Hoof Gel, which is a concentrated gel product made for voids and cracks.)

Simple Rules that Prevent Problems
Hoof Soaking is a simple concept for treating deeply rooted infections, yet a risky one. This method is recommended only when other less invasive methods have been tried first. We must never forget that soaking has the potential to cause irreversible cell damage to the hoof if done incorrectly.

Hoof soaking is not an exact science because every situation is different. We asked the experts to share their best recommendations on hoof soaking with us. The rules selected are designed primarily to keep us from getting into trouble and give us the best chance of success.

It is amazing the hear so may horror stories about horse owners who have inadvertently damaged the feet by over soaking, not realizing that safer options may exist. It appears that controlled soaking may the answer. There are several companies that make soaking products. We are just focusing our attention on the two with over ten years of experience with soaking.

Researchers at SBS Equine Products have developed a unique product called Sav-A-Hoof Soak. The product contains a powerful fungicide as well as broad spectrum bactericide that is very effective and long lasting. This longer contact time allows for a more conservative method of treatment. Another company, Davis Manufacturing, were successful at molding the Davis Horse Boot. The product is a one piece, high top, medical boot that was engineered specifically for soaking the hoof, not as a riding boot.

Rule 1. Clear Debris From Voids

hoof pick

Use a hoof pick and brush before washing the hoof to clear trapped debris from voids. This helps to open up blocked passageways for the Soak to work better.

Rule 2. Wash Hoof Before Soaking

wash hoof

Thoroughly wash off hard surface dirt with soapy water before each soaking session. This will help prevent contamination of the soaking material.

Rule 3. Use Boots Made for Soaking
Soaking boots are injection molded in one piece construction, and produced in many sizes. They are made of a flexible plastic to make it easier to slip on or off the hoof. The resin used to make the boots should be compatible with the chemicals used to treat the hoof. Form fitting soaking boots require much less volume of Soak than would a bucket. This is a good thing. Look for boots with a closure top that is well above the hairline. This helps prevent the liquid contents from spilling out.

Rule 4. Use Commercial Soaking Preparation
Use only commercially products that are specifically recommended for hoof soaking. Read the labels to make sure the ingredients are not harmful to hoof tissue. They should also be effective against both fungus and bacteria. Never use household products for soaking. They can cause irreversible damage the hoof. Products that bind to hoof protein work best.

Rule 5. Limit Soaking Time
Limit soaking contact time to 30 minutes, and no more than twice a day. Stop soaking if the hoof becomes soft and punchy. A longer contact time may be permitted when doing a controlled soak; that is, if the boot has a soaking pad inside with just a few ounces of Soak in it.

Hoof Soaking Products

For more information concerning this article contact:
Ray Tricca, SBS Equine Products, info@sbsequine.comsbsequine.com

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Once upon a time, there was a very clever donkey…

One day a farmer’s donkey fell down into the old dry well at the back of his farm.

While the farmer tried to figure out what to do, the donkey began crying.  The crying turned into non-stop braying.

It became so overwhelming, you could feel the animal’s fear and desperation as it begged for help.
After several hours, the farmer felt he had no choice but to put the animal down.  He simply didn’t know what to do.  The donkey was old, and the well needed to be covered anyway.
And so with a heavy heart, the farmer called all his neighbors over and asked them to help him put his beloved donkey out of its misery.

Each one of his neighbors grabbed a shovel and began scooping up dirt, and then tossing it down into the well.

The donkey, who was a little old, but FAR from stupid.  Immediately he realized what was happening and his crying got even LOUDER.  But then… after a few minutes, the donkey suddenly regained his composure and quieted down.

The farmer looked down into the well, and he was astonished at what he saw:  Every time someone shoveled dirt down into the well… instead of letting the dirt pile up on him… the donkey shook the dirt off his back and stepped up onto it.

And as each new scoop of dirt was tossed into the well, the donkey continued stepping up — higher and higher, over time.

Pretty soon, the farmer and all his neighbors stood there in amazement, as the donkey stepped up and out, over the edge of the well… shook the final clumps of dirt off his back… and walked over to the farmer who greeted him with tears, love and smiles.

The moral of the story: From time to time… life is going to shovel some dirt on you.

All kinds of dirt, in fact.  And sometimes, that dirt is going to feel like it’s piling up so deep and so high… it feels like you’re going to collapse underneath the weight of it all.

The trick to getting out of the well isn’t to fight the dirt, or stop the dirt, or to turn the dirt into gold.  You have no control over these things, and all that’s going to do is take away your energy and frustrate you even more, leading you into more desperation.

The thing to do is what the old donkey did.  Shake it off… and take a step up.

Got Dirt?  The New Year is bound to toss some dirt your way – it’s your choice as to what to do with it.  I hope you take the step up too.

* No animals were harmed in the telling of this story.

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How To Connect the Lazy Horse

By Jane Savoie

This month I’ll explain how to use the “Connecting Aids” with a lazy horse to put him on the bit. Next month, I’ll talk about connecting the hot Horse.

Here’s a review of the connecting aids:

(1) Close both calves to generate power from behind.

(2) Close your outside hand in a fist to capture, contain, and recycle that power back to the hind legs.

(3) Squeeze and release (vibrate) the inside rein, like squeezing water out of a sponge, to keep your horse’s neck straight.

Apply the three sets of aids for approximately three seconds. To an observer, it will appear that you’re giving the aids simultaneously, but in reality the legs slightly precede the closing of the outside hand, which is applied just before the vibrations with the inside hand.

In order to get the desired effect from these connecting aids, it’s important that your horse responds obediently to your aids. This is often overlooked, as many of us have a very lazy that seems to ignore our aids. Here are some tips to help you.

The Lazy Horse

Your connecting aids won’t work if your horse isn’t in front of your driving aids. For example, when you put your legs on, your horse should immediately move forward. Remember that horses are extremely sensitive to touch. No matter how lazy a horse is, he can feel a fly land on his side and flick it off.

It’s usually the rider who makes the horse dull. The horse isn’t electric enough, so the rider uses more leg. That works for a while, but then the horse gets dull to that, so the rider starts putting on spurs. Then the horse gets used to that so the spurs get bigger. This cycle is common, and as time goes by, the leg aid gets louder and louder.

The reason your horse isn’t reacting to light aids is probably because you’ve started “screaming” with your aids, and he’s tuned you out.

The first thing you have to do is decide that you’re not going to close your legs any stronger than a fly landing on your horse’s side. When you whisper with an aid, your horse should shout his answer-instead of the other way around.

The Correction

Instead of constantly repeating your aid or making it stronger, make a correction. The correction for the lazy horse depends on his sensitivity. You can either bump-bump-bump with your legs, or you can use your whip and tap-tap-tap to chase your horse forward.

Either way, you need to get a really forward response. If you’re walking, bump or tap until your horse is trotting; if you’re trotting, do it until he breaks into the canter.

The most important part of the correction is to re-test with a light, whispering aid. For example, in a transition from walk to trot, lightly close your legs, and your horse should surge into the trot. If he doesn’t, tap-tap-tap, but then you must go back to the walk and re-test with a very light aid for that transition. When he reacts enthusiastically, praise him.

Once he’s in front of your leg, go back to using the connecting aids as described above.

Reprinted with permission.

About Jane Savoie:  Jane Savoie is one of the most recognized names in dressage, and for a good reason.  She has been a member of the United States Equestrian Team and has competed for the US in Canada, Holland, Belgium, France and Germany. She was the reserve rider for the Bronze medal winning Olympic dressage team in Barcelona, Spain. She has been long-listed by the USET with several horses and has won nine Horse of the Year awards and three National Freestyle Championships.

She was the 1996 and 2004 Olympic dressage coach for the Canadian 3-Day Event Team in Atlanta and Athens. She also coached several top dressage and 3- Day Event riders in their preparations for the 2000 Olympics and while in Sydney she helped rider Susan Blinks secure a bronze medal for the US dressage team. Ms. Savoie has written five books that have been published both in the US and abroad.

www.janesavoie.com

Did you miss Jane Savoie’s Happy Horse course holiday sale? I just found out that it’s not too late for you to take advantage of it, you’ve got one last chance.

Her powerful Happy Horse courses include 12 Bonuses (including The Riders’ Inside Edge CD set and her bestselling book That Winning Feeling) AND the one and only chance for a 4-payment plan.

But you have to act fast – Jane is making this final offer available for 24 hours only starting Monday December 19th midnight EST (9 pm PST) to midnight Tuesday December 20th EST (9PM PST).

Check it out here and claim your copy now:

http://tinyurl.com/janesavoiehappyhorse

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3 Stress Clues and 5 Stress Busting Tips To Help Your Animals Breeze Through The Holidays

Holidays, vacations, and any change in routine are typically stressful times for most of us, and seriously stresses out your animals.  But, they don’t have to be if you know what to do to minimize the stress.

Taking the right steps to de-stress your animal helps you de-stress too, because it helps you plan in ways that are more manageable, creates more certainty, and helps you be less emotionally imbalanced.

Remember that your animal mirrors you – so if you’re stressed, frustrated, anxious, nervous or worried in any way, that’s the message they get and that’s what they’ll act out (mirror back) for you.

Instability is not your animal’s friend!

Your job is to make their environment as stable and calming as possible, and to prepare them properly in advance for changes in routine.  Monitor them carefully during the events.

That doesn’t mean that they can’t experience change in routine or be completely protected from anything new or different.

It simply means that they need to know:

  • What to expect
  • When things will happen, who’s involved
  • What you need from them/how you want them to behave
  • How long you’ll be gone
  • Whether they’ll be in a kennel or boarded while you’re gone and that you’re coming back and when
  • Whether they’ll be coming with you and what to expect
  • And, they need a way to tell you what they want and if they have questions or concerns.

So you can see how important it is to help your animals de-stress through the holidays when going on vacations, moving or when you go on trips together.

There are many Stress Clues.  Here are the three most common ones:

1.  Excessive panting or heavy breathing. This can also look like running around uncontrollably, being restless, hyperactive, bouncing off the walls and acting unpredictably… Pay attention to the signs and don’t ignore them!  They aren’t happy – they are stressed and need your help.  Be consciously aware and calmly and confidently create a time out where they can calm down, then leave them alone.

2.  Holding their breath and being rigid, tense, a worried expression, or they go into a hiding mode.  If that’s the case, then give them a safe zone.  That could be their kennel, or simply shut them into a room where they can calm down on their own.  They have become hyper-stimulated and need a chance for their sympathetic nervous system to reboot.  Some animals are easily over stimulated, so notice where their tolerance levels are and try not to exceed that.

3.  Acting out with really bad behavior.  Usually when they get to this stress clue, they’ve already blown through Stress Clue 1 and 2, and are over the top before you’ve noticed or paid attention and taken appropriate action.  What you can do about it at this point is simply remove them from the area and take them back to their safe, quiet zone.

What can you do if you see any of these Stress Signs? 

1.    Keep their routine stable in as many ways as you can.  Feeding routines should be at the same time of day with their same foods, keep to their same sleep schedule, if they’re being boarded – take their favorite toys or treats and be sure they have things of their own with yours and their scents on them (scent is critically important to animals).

2.  Discharge energy – they need exercise!  If they start getting fussy, irritable, depressed or start acting out, they need play therapy (for cats) or a great walk or run for the dogs.  Exercise, discipline (rules, limitations, boundaries – include and continue training and reward for good behavior keeps their world more stable) and then affection, in that order.

3.  No look – No touch – No eye contact… until they calm down and are ready to connect calmly with others on your terms.  For animals that get too excited or over stimulated, practice (and tell your guests or other people you’re in contact with) to ignore them until they settle down.

4.  Be calm, confident and assertive – no matter what happens.  If they are acting out with bad behavior, don’t yell, don’t call their name and don’t chase them.  Use your correcting voice and your body language to distract or redirect them until you can better control them. Then simply remove them from the area until they’ve calmed down, and you can have your chat together.

5.  Tell them what you want them to do!  They need a job and they need to know what’s expected of them, and how you want them to behave.  So tell them!

First, after they’ve calmed down and can listen to you again, talk to them about their behavior.  Image what they did that was bad and feel how upset that made you.

Then, feeling your emotions about what happened.  Doing this properly is critical because they can feel them too.  Emotions let your animal know why it is important to you.

Next, image what the consequence of their bad behavior is or could have been, showing them the worst case scenario.  That helps them put the story into context so it makes more sense.

Finally, tell them the story about what you wanted them to do in that situation, how you would feel if they did that, and how happy that would make you feel.  This way you address the bad behavior, but you also offer the positive suggestion for what you really want to have happen.

Want more?  There are 3 simple steps to communicating in my free Quickstart to Animal Communication home study course.  And the world’s first Animal Communication Made Easy System™ and Virtual Retreat takes you much deeper into heart centered connection and understanding.

Your cat, your dog, your horse or your bird depends on you to care for them.  And a big part of your doing that successfully is in knowing how to understand them and communicate with them on a daily basis.

Plus, communicating with your animals is really fun, too.  When properly prepared, they can give you all kinds of feedback about your family and friends, alert you to any potential trouble brewing, and partner up with you to have the best time possible.

Focusing on creating a more stable environment helps your animals be calm, peaceful, happier and healthier during the holiday – and will help you enjoy them more too.

 

Val Heart - The Real Dr Doolittle, Val is internationally known as an expert animal communicator, teacher, author & master healer specializing in resolving behavior, training, performance, and health problems, and assisting with end of life situations.  Learn Animal Communication in One Weekend™ Virtual Retreat   contactval@valheart.com   http://www.valheart.com/acsretreatl.html

© Copyright Val Heart & Friends LLC. All Rights Reserved.  Reprint rights by request only.

 

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True Love at the Alltech Games – Fuego XII Set Hearts Aflutter

Written by Mary Phelps Hathaway, http://budurl.com/gfmx

OK, I’m in love, and everyone sitting beside me, behind me, in front of me, and in the crowd during the Dressage Freestyle was thinking the same thing. The audience loved Fuego XII the Pura Reza Espanola (PRE) Stallion from Spain and his rider Juan Manuel Munoz Diaz. He won crowd Gold at the Alltech/FEI World Equestrian Games, Kentucky 2010.

The thirteen year old stallion by Utrerano VII X Elgido represents the culmination of the development of the Spanish breeding program which represents the classical qualities of everything anyone would want in a dressage horse. When he does the piaffe/passage you can see it in his face he would be happy to be doing it all day long. Our horsemarket and Dressagedaily manager Liz Ruggiero made sure to bring her hanky for this one, and she needed it. It was impossible to take a bad picture of this horse, and the rider charmed us as well.

Fuego and Juan Manuel Munoz Diaz showed the crowd and the judges that the PRE has now showed the world that the Spanish breed has risen to the top of the world rankings in all that a dressage horse represents. “We first saw this breed at the Olympic Games in Atlanta 1996 “ said WEG Dressage judge Linda Zang, “and the Spanish have developed and nurtured the qualities which represent what we are looking for in the test.”

Our good friend and breeder of the PRE in America Kim Boyer of Hampton Green Farm in Fruitport Michigan was thrilled at the result of what she has know all along, that this breed of horse is an important contribution to the sport of dressage. “OK, said Liz as she wiped her eyes after Fuego left the arena. “This will have to be my next horse.”

 

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Animal Crackers

You are into animals – hehe!!! Have you seen this video? Hilarious

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Translating “VetSpeak” at the Rood and Riddle Pavilion

Guest article reprinted with permission from Fran Jurga, http://budurl.com/bncw

What a day today was at the Kentucky Horse Park. A tiny nick in a horse’s tongue caused a major catastrophe in the career of one of the world’s rising star riders. As the Dutch vet pointed out, it only takes one drop of blood to turn a vial of water bright red; likewise, it takes only one drop of blood to turn a horse’s saliva red.

And so it was that the Ground Jury was compelled to ring the bell and halt the high-scoring performance of The Netherlands’ Adelinde Cornelissen on Jerich Parzival. The cut stopped bleeding instantly, but the damage was done. It’s a welfare issue, and Adelinde was disqualified from further competition.

People joke and say that there are more veterinarians here than there are horses. They may be correct. There are event vets, FEI vets, State of Kentucky vets, regulatory vets, quarantine vets, team vets and even sometimes personal vets for the horses, even though they have team vets.

And let’s not forget the sponsor vets. Rood and Riddle Equine Hospital is just down the road, and they are providing the event veterinarians as well as access to their facility if it is needed.

But Rood and Riddle’s sponsorship goes a step further. As the official veterinary hospital of the Games and a key sponsor of the entire event, Rood and Riddle had a key opportunity to use their position in educational ways. Their “show and tell” exhibit about the technology and the services available at the hospital allows visitors to wander through the exhibits while having staff nearby to answer questions and explain equipment or horseshoes.

Horseshoes? Yes, the hospital built a shallow-drawered vertical case to display therapeutic horseshoes used in the hospital’s podiatry clinic. Ultrasound and radiography are featured, but you know that the crowd stopper will be the colic surgery!

The pavilion, which is located in a neighborhood called the Alltech Experience, has a theater where lectures and demonstrations will be going on throughout the Games. There is no charge to attend any of the events in the Alltech Experience, including Rood and Riddle’s lectures.

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All Natural Product – Great for Tough Equine Cleaning Jobs

For many horse owners, sheath cleaning is a daunting task. When it comes down to tackling this task, eZall Sheath Cleaner provides you with a new and effective formula for even the dirtiest jobs.

At least every six months, a horse?s sheath needs to be cleaned of built up smegma and debris. Smegma is simply a collection of dirt and bodily excretions that build up inside the sheath. Healthy microorganisms live inside the horse?s sheath, so you do not want to use an antibacterial soap for cleansing; instead, use eZall Sheath Cleaner to remove unwanted bacteria and debris.

eZall Sheath Cleaner is made from a key non-ionic surfactant system derived from soy, corn, palm and cotton seed oils, their alcohols, fatty acids, esters and other related materials. Because of it’s natural ingredients derived from renewable resources, it rinses out easily, won’t leave a residue on skin and helps speed up the cleansing process.

?I really like it because it is easy to use and healthier than other products because it is all natural,? says Jason Goodman of Priefert Texas Thunder. Goodman manages a herd of 23 Black Percheron Draft Horses, 8 of which tour around the country in a premier draft horse exhibition. His horses perform at a new location each week where they have their sheaths cleaned and are bathed upon their arrival.

In just two to three minutes after application eZall Sheath Cleaner gently loosens smegma for a fast and easy removal. After cleaning, it rinses off easily and won?t even irritate the most sensitive skin.

?It is hands down the best product out there and nothing even comes close to what eZall Sheath Cleaner does,? says Goodman.

eZall Sheath Cleaner is also great for cleaning mares before and after breeding or foaling. Gentle yet effective, it’s formula provides a natural solution for stallions, geldings and mares. For more info on eZall Sheath Cleaner visit www.ezall.com

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What Your Horse’s Tail Tells You

By Sarah King, http://tinyurl.com/3sh689u

Tails are vital communication centers for your horse, relaying messages about moods, health, energy and locomotion.

Whether wispy or luxurious, flowing, braided or banged, a horse’s tail is perhaps his most beautiful and versatile physical feature. Much more than mere ornament or glorified flyswatter, the tail serves many purposes.

As a device of communication, it speaks simply and eloquently to horse and to man; as a barometer of equine health, it telegraphs vital messages about an animal’s well-being; as a protective shield, it assists in temperature regulation and safeguards delicate reproductive structures against environmental onslaught; and as a mechanism of balance, it subtly influences the alignment of the horses hind end. How can a structure largely prized for its aesthetic appeal be so practical an appendage as well? That answer can be found by taking a look at the anatomy and evolution of the tail.

The Inside Story
Flexible and strong, the horse’s tail is part of his spinal column. It is made up of approximately 18 vertebrae–some horses have more, others have fewer. The bones are progressively smaller from the root of the tail to the tip; the last one is pointed.

Overall tail movement is governed by portions of the semitendinosus muscles, which extend over the horse’s rump and attach to the vertebrae. Detailed adjustments in curvature and posture of the tail are aided by muscle-fiber bundles located in the tail itself, above, below and on each side of the bones.

Two arteries pump blood to the tail, but circulation is not efficient in this narrow appendage. As a result, injuries heal more slowly here, and infections tend to persist stubbornly.

On the exterior, the skin and hair of the tail actually are enhanced versions of the horse’s fuzzy hide. For instance, at the point where the tail attaches to the buttocks, the skin is five-eighths of an inch thick–as much as a half-inch thicker than it is anywhere else on the horse. Thicker and coarser than any body hair, the strands of the tail are made entirely of hardened (keratinized) protein. A typical tail hair consists of three layers; an inner core (medulla); the middle cortex layer comprised of long, twisted protein strands; and a thin protective outer covering known as the cuticle. Through it appears smooth, the cuticle actually is made of overlapping horny scales.

It’s the middle layer that determines whether a hair is curly or straight. The individual protein strands vary in their physical properties, such as how stretchy they are, but usually they are distributed evenly, so that the hair looks straight. However, if too many strands with similar properties are grouped together, the cortex is no longer balanced and the hair develops waves. Straight hair generally is the rule among horses, but a few breeds, notably Morgans and some draft horses, can sport wavy tails. The most extreme example of an eccentric cortex is the Bashkir Curly–not only are his tail and mane frizzy, but his body is completely covered in split curls.

Some breeds, such as the Andalusian and Friesian, are known for the extraordinary length and luxury of their tails. Like their curly-coated counterparts, these horses possess a specific combination of genes that produce their magnificent tresses. Genetic factors also combine with environmental influences to determine which horses have rough, coarse, protective tail hair–for instance, the dense, heavy tails of Shetland ponies and Icelandic horses–and which ones possess fine, silky locks–the desert-roaming Arabian is a prime example.

What no one really knows, though, is why the horse is the only member of the equine family to have such long, flowing locks. His history, however, does hold some clue.

From the Dawn of Time
In prehistoric oceans, creatures that pushed with their tails to move in straight lines went to the top of the food chain as sharks and other fishes. Amphibians retained powerful propulsive tails even as their ungainly legs emerged. Eons before the equine species existed, land reptiles’ (dinosaurs’) legs protruded from the sides of their heavy bodies. Long, heavy tails were critical to these animals’ ability to get from place to place. They were used as counterbalances for maneuvering around corners and tillers for moving in a straight line.

By the time the horse’s early ancestor hyracotherium appeared sometime in the Eocene epoch, the tail already had reached the point of being largely nonfunctional as a locomotor device. Hyracotherium looked and moved in a drastically different way than its ancestors. Its knees were turned forward, its elbows backward and its limbs were tucked under the body.

Stuart Sumida, PhD, hypothesizes that the adaptations were related to the survival of the species. “Hyracotherium relied on speed to evade its predators,” he says. “This new type of physique allowed the creature to move more quickly. The importance of the tail as a locomotor device was greatly diminished. It was essentially freed up to become what it is today.”

Compared to the functional abilities of other mammalian tails, the horse’s caudal appendage, according to Sumida, deserves only a so-so rating. It’s far inferior to that of a cat, for example, whose tail is wonderfully dextrous, he says, infinitely expressive and a real asset to the amazing array of bodily convolutions a cat can perform.

Given its somewhat diminished importance, then, why was the equine tail retained at all? Deb Bennett, PhD, an expert on equine physiology, speculates that there were two compelling reasons: It was there anyway, and the horse needs it. “Nature has a tendency to retain some evidence of the primitive,” she says. “We see that over and over again in evolutionary processes. Then, too, the horse’s tail does serve some real purposes–protection for one, communication for another.”

Equine Body Language
Horses relate through body language, and the tail is one of their most expressive “talking” parts. It is used to communicate information about their physical and emotional states both within the herd and between horse and rider.

The consummate herd animal, the horse depends on his equine peers for his very survival. Over millions of years, horses have developed a complex system of tail signals that enable members of a herd to “discuss” matters that are essential to group maintenance. Reproductive success, for example, is necessary to herd stability, and some tail signals are devoted exclusively to communications regarding procreation. In the presence of stallions, mares in heat will lift their tails up and to one side–sort of a “come hither” motion to indicate sexual receptiveness. If they’re already in foal, they will warn away would-be suitors with an aggressive side-to-side swish of the tail.

The survival of the herd depends on the group’s ability to communicate and detect danger. A slightly raised tail, in combination with the “ready” stance–weight on all four feet, ear pricked forward–means “Alert! Stop what you’re doing and await further instructions!” Protective stallions, in displays to frighten off invaders, will lift their tails, prance and defecate.

As members of a herd hammer out their hierarchy and preferred relationships, their tails speak of hostilities quashed, disciplinary measures taken and friendships formed. Standing head-to-tail in groups of two, longtime pals contentedly swish flies from each other’s faces. Frisky foals engage each other in games and races with their tails held high, a sure sign of excitement and high spirits. But overly boisterous youngsters and bold upstarts often will be warned off by an elder’s hunched rump and twitching tail, indicating readiness to deliver a good, swift kick to the offender. The subordinate animal, duly chastened, clamps his tail between his hind legs, finally rendering to his superior.

What’s That, You Say?
Horses speak to their human companions in similar way. And an owner who “tunes in” soon learns to read and heed his equine charges’ body language. In general, the tail complements the position and attitude of the horse’s head and neck: When they’re up, it’s up, and vice versa.

A horse who swishes his tail from side to side in an agitated manner is not pleased with what he’s being asked to do, says Katherine Houpt, VMD, PhD. “The activity is causing him either psychological or physical discomfort,” she says, “and the situation should be analyzed to discover the root of the problem.”

Another signal–a tightly clamped tail–can be read in either of two ways. Accompanied by bunched rump muscles, it’s a sure-fire sign that the horse is ready to explode. “Get ready for a buck or a kick,” warns Houpt. But if the horse is standing still, looking miserable, and perhaps occasionally stamping his feet, it’s an indication of discomfort in the belly of hindquarters.

Rx for a Healthy Tail
The best way to maintain a tail’s good looks and function is to keep it clean and in top condition. Unfortunately, though tail skin feels tough and those hairs look impenetrable, the equine tail isn’t immune to injury and disease. But conscientious care can make the difference between lush and scraggly.

Healthy tail hairs are elastic and shiny, thanks to the lubricating sebum excreted from oil glands at the base of the hair follicles. It’s perfectly normal to find dead hairs among the healthy ones–they’re victims of the normal growth-death-replacement cycle as the body constantly replenishes itself. But beware of dull, brittle tail hairs and hair falling out by the handful–these could signal the onset of disease or a dietary deficiency and require prompt attention.

As for cleanliness, professional trainers and grooms advise washing the tail only when necessary. Frequent shampoos dry out hair and skin by interfering with the distribution of natural oils produced by the sebaceous glands. A once-a-month once-over is enough to maintain healthy-looking tail hair.

When washing, be sure to wet all the hair well. Drench it right down to the tailbone and work a mild shampoo into the innermost tresses. Rinse thoroughly–soap residue can dry and irritate skin and provoke tail rubbing. Use a good-quality conditioner and leave it in for several minutes; then rinse again until the water runs clear.

To minimize breakage, don’t comb the tail while it’s wet. Wait until the hair is completely dry, and then pick out tangles with your fingers or comb, A brush with flexible metal tines and cushioned tips works well, too. But don’t use stiff plastic grooming aids–they tend to damage hair shafts and pull out healthy hairs.

To brush or comb, start at the ends and work up. Grab a one-inch hunk and fan it out to detangle individual hairs. Continue until you’re groomed the entire tail.

Baby oil as a grooming aid enhances the hair’s condition and shine, and helps control dandruff. Silicone sprays add temporary luster for the show ring, but it’s best to wash them out after the show since they ultimately dry the hair.

This article originally appeared in the August 1993 issue of EQUUS magazine.

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The Connection Between Animal and Human Abuse

By Daisy Chee

Acts of animal abuse go on every day, with many invisible and unreported. Hence, innocent, lovely creatures have to endure the most unpleasant and painful experience living here on earth – with us!

Like us, they just want to have a decent life, be loved, and be free to roam around without being subjected to all manner of abuse.

Animal abuse can take many forms and include

- Dumping and abandonment
- Neglect leading to starvation, disease, psychological distress, etc
- Slaughter house practices
- Puppy mills
- Organised dog fights/cock fights
- Tying up animals over their lifetimes
- Confining animals in small cages over their lifetimes
- Beating and other active, malicious forms of torture

When we get down to its essence, animal abuse is the inappropriate use of one’s power over a weaker being that cannot defend itself. It has parallels with child abusers and rapists inflicting pain on those who are vulnerable. Their victims are powerless and the offenders consequently mistreat them for their own selfish pleasures.

Over the past forty years, there have been numerous research studies showing the connection between animal abuse and human violence. This connection was first documented in the 1970′s when the United States FBI found that many serial killers had tortured or killed animals when they were children.

A 1997 study by the Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals and Northeastern University quantified that animal abusers were five times more likely to commit violent crimes against people than those without a history of animal abuse.

In fact, the American Psychiatric Association lists animal cruelty as a symptom of a serious psychological condition.

According to Dr Randall Lockwood of Washington University and Vice-President of the Humane Society of the United States, it has become widely accepted that the mistreatment of animals can be an indicator of many other forms of family violence and ongoing abuse and neglect, including child abuse, elder abuse, domestic violence and mistreatment of the disabled.

Dr Lockwood points out that a child’s cruelty to animals can also indicate that he is at high risk of becoming a perpetrator of violence in society later, perpetuating the cruelties that he or she has experienced.

Even as far back as the 17th century, the influential English philosopher John Locke said of children that “…tormenting and killing…beasts will, by degrees, harden their minds even towards men; and they who delight in the suffering and destruction of inferior creatures, will not be apt to be very compassionate or benign to those of their own kind.”

Therefore, we need to be especially attentive when a child tortures an animal or complains of his father mistreating his pet. These incidents can signal a higher risk of violence – within the child’s household currently, and/or by the child when he becomes an adult.

Clearly, there are significant benefits to be reaped from early identification and intervention. Another positive is that animal abusers can be rehabilitated. According to Dr Lockwood, “…we have also realised that the proper experiences with animals can provide a road back to empathy and compassion, and can be a powerful force for healing and a way of breaking the cycle of violence.”

Evidence of the strong association – between animal abuse and human violence – demands that animal abuse cannot be treated in isolation anymore. In line with this, authorities urgently need to develop policies and practices that are collaborative and multi-disciplinary. Critical are cross-reporting and the attendant cooperation between a range of professionals such as the police, child protection agencies, animal welfare agencies and veterinarians.

Equally, the police, governments and schools need to regularly send out strong messages that the abuse of animals or humans will not be tolerated because any abuse endangers society as a whole. To reinforce this, the police and courts need to treat animal abuse as a serious crime and not trivialise it as a minor offence.

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More information and discussion on this can be found in the blog of Daisy Chee. Daisy Chee is passionate about animal welfare. In between her full-time job in financial services, she would like to engage in conversations with respect to how we can effectively eradicate cruel practices inflicted against these voiceless, defenceless and beautiful creatures. Please share your thoughts with her via her blog http://daisychee.wordpress.com.

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