by Lisa Carter

No one yet understands why some horses are more prone to colic than others. One thing is certain though - colic in horses can be fatal if left untreated and should be dealt with as an emergency.  If you suspect your horse is colicking, take immediate action by calling your veterinarian.  While you await the arrival of your veterinarian you can try some of these natural remedies to relieve colic in horses.

Homeopathy Remedies For Colic

Homeopathic medicines are a common natural therapy to relieve colic in horses.  It is best to consult an holistic veterinarian to determine dosing and the best treatment for your situation and symptoms.  Here are some general guidelines to determine what you might want to have on hand and what to use for certain types of symptoms.

  • Aconite - Used for colic triggered by fear.  Best if used early, when colic symptoms are first noticed.  Symptoms for aconite use are: sudden high fever, a rapid pulse, and restlessness or fearful behavior.
  • Belladonna – Best used for sudden intense onset of severe colic symptoms.  The horse displays violent behavior such as striking, biting or kicking, and may show heightened sensitivity to touch, light and noise.  Other symptoms may include dilated pupils, dry mouth and hot to the touch.
  • Arsenicum Album – Use if your horse has very watery and dark diarrhea.  The stool may have a foul odor to it.  The horse appears thirsty but will only take small frequent amounts of water.
  • Chamomilla – Use for horses with symptoms of excessive flatulence and/or diarrhea consisting of green stool that smells of rotten eggs.  The horse may also display violent behavior such as kicking out, grinding teeth or screaming.  Do not use if the horse is constipated.  
  • Colocynthis – Use in cases where the horse wants to roll or lie down or if the cause of the colic is unknown.  Other symptoms may include sporadic but severe cramping pain.
  • Magnesia Phosphorica – Use with symptoms of muscle spasms, twitching eyelids or extremities, bloated and/or kicking at abdomen.
  • Colchicum - Use with very gassy symptoms – frequent spasms accompanied by a bloated abdomen and very loud gut sounds.  The horse may also be kicking at abdomen but doesn’t want to move much.  Other symptoms may include abdomen being hot to the touch and constipation.
  • Carbo Vegetabilis – Use with shocky horses.  Symptoms include weakness or horse has collapsed, bluish tinge of the mucous membranes, shallow breathing, bloating or excessive flatulation.
  • Nux vomica – Can be used to increase gut motility when used during colic associated with a blockage or severe abdominal spasms.

Equine Massage Therapy

I have used equine massage on multiple occasions for horses that are in the early stages of colic.  Using equine massage can be a very beneficial natural therapy if a horse is colicky by helping the horse to relax and providing much needed pain relief.  Massage also helps increase circulation and in conjunction with the muscle relaxation can aide gut motility with certain types of colic.  This modality works extremely well in conjunction with acupressure in relieving colic symptoms and can significantly lessen the severity of a colic episode while you await the arrival of your veterinarian.

Equine Acupuncture and Acupressure

Acupuncture and acupressure are ancient Chinese bodywork therapies that are based on the concept of “life energy” or “Chi” which flows through pathways in the body called “meridians”.  Acupressure uses finger pressure and acupuncture uses needles to access these meridians in order to “unblock” the pathways and allow the free flow of Chi through the body, restoring balance and health.  There are specific points along the meridians of the body that effect each organ, including the stomach and intestines.  By applying pressure to these points you can help ease colic symptoms in the horse.

You can find an excellent article on acupressure for colic with the associated points for each type of colic here: http://www.animalacupressure.com/tg_site/articles/actionforcolic.html

Essential Oils For Horse Colic

Essential Oils can be a powerful first aide tool for your barn.  They are easy to use and horses react very well to them.  You can often find pre-assembled emergency first aide kits online or can create your own.  The recommended essential oils for a horse colic are:

  • Di-Gize Essential Oil – a blend of eight different essential oils and is known to aide relaxation, the prevention of diarrhea, intestinal spasms, digesting toxic material as well as provide an overall soothing effect on the digestive system.
  • Peppermint Essential Oil – good for headaches and upset stomach.
  • Ginger Essential Oil – good for digestive upsets, used as a heart tonic and aides in circulation.
  • Tarragon Essential Oil – good to combat digestive conditions, indigestion, hiccups, urinary tract infections and menstrual problems.

The great thing about all of the above-mentioned natural colic remedies is that they can be used alone or in combination with each other.  They are all very complimentary and should not interfere with traditional treatments that your veterinarian might recommend.  All can be performed at the earliest signs of a colic and while you are waiting for your veterinarian.

Determining the root cause of your horse’s colic can be very challenging as there are so many variables involved and triggers for colic in horses.  However, with the help of your veterinarian, when you do identify the culprit it will go a long way in determining a course of preventive care for your horse and help eliminate the possibility of another colic in your horse’s future.  Prevention is the best medicine!

If you have other natural remedies that you’d like to share please feel free to leave a comment below. We’d love to hear from you!

 

 

 

By Dr. Karen Becker, DVM                                                

A subject readers here at HealthyPets and clients at my animal clinic are very interested in is the kind of food they should be feeding their dog or cat for good health.

So by popular demand, today’s video is a discussion of my recommendations for the best-to-worst diets you can feed your pet.

There are 13 categories on my list, and what you’re feeding will fall into one of them.

Now, if the diet you’re serving your dog or cat happens to fall into one of the lower quality categories, I don’t want you to beat yourself up about it.

As a general rule, people who are feeding their pets a lesser quality diet are doing so either because they can’t afford a better food – or they simply don’t know what constitutes good nutrition for their pet.

If you discover your furry buddy is eating from the lower half of the list, set a goal to feed a better quality food now that you know the difference, or when you can afford a more nutritious brand.

Again, everyone’s pet food of choice can be found in one of these categories. I encourage you to figure out where the diet you’re serving right now falls in the list, and then strive for improvement by feeding more nourishing, species-appropriate food.

Food Can Either Heal or Harm

As a proactive veterinarian interested in sustaining the natural good health of my pet patients, I always encourage pet owners to evaluate their animal’s diet, because food is the foundation upon which good or ill health is built.

It’s important to understand that food has the ability to heal or harm your pet, depending on the type and quality of nutrition you provide.

The first factor you should evaluate is the species-appropriateness of what your dog or cat is eating.

A species-appropriate diet contains lots of good quality protein as well as moisture. The protein is necessary because both dogs and cats are carnivores.

High moisture content is required in order to prevent organ dysfunction, including kidney failure. Dogs and cats are designed to eat food that is about 70 percent moisture, which is what a diet of mice and rabbits would provide if your pet hunted his own food.

If you feed your pet dry food only, he’s getting only about 12 percent moisture instead of the 70 percent his body demands. This is especially unhealthy for cats, because they don’t supplement their moisture intake by drinking large amounts of water like dogs do.

Pets on dry food diets (kibble or pelleted) live in a state of chronic, mild dehydration that over time can cause significant stress to their organs.

Species-appropriate nutrition does not contain much starch, also known as grains or carbohydrates. Corn, wheat, rice and soy are found in most commercial processed pet foods, but your dog or cat has no biological need for them.

I recommend you follow the laws of nature when it comes to your pet’s diet, which is to feed everything his body needs and eliminate ingredients that provide no nourishment.

In addition to the species-appropriateness of your pet’s diet, it also needs to be balanced. By balanced I mean food that contains all the vitamins, minerals and other nutrients your dog or cat needs.

This isn’t something you can guess at – it should be guaranteed through testing.

Nutritional balance is vitally important because deficiencies will develop much faster in your dog or cat than they will in you. A poorly nourished puppy or kitten can end up with obvious signs of skeletal problems and organ degeneration before she’s six months old.

An older animal can develop life-threatening organ degeneration, among many other not-so-obvious symptoms, over a one  to three year period of eating an unbalanced, nutrient-deficient diet.

The List of Best-to-Worst Foods

    1. A balanced, raw, homemade diet is the best food you can feed your dog or cat. It will be nutritionally balanced because you’re following recipes like those found in the cookbook I co-authored, Real Food for Healthy Dogs and Cats.

Raw means the food is unadulterated and still contains all the enzymes and nutrients that are typically destroyed during cooking or other types of processing.

Homemade is the best option because you are in complete control of the quality of ingredients in your pet’s diet.

I recommend pets get plenty of nutritional variety, and another great thing about serving homemade is you can buy seasonal fruits and veggies on sale, as well as protein sources (meats), and use them in rotation.

    1. The next best thing you can feed your pet is a commercially available raw diet. This is a raw food diet that someone else has done the heavy lifting to prepare.

It’s important that the diet is balanced, and you should be aware that there are raw food pet diets entering the market that are not yet proven to be nutritionally complete. These foods often say “For supplementation or intermittent feeding” on the label.

You’ll know if the raw food you’ve selected is balanced because it will say it right on the packaging: “This food has been proven to be nutritionally complete or adequate for all life stages.”

At the present time, these diets are found only in the freezer section of small/privately owned or upscale pet boutiques – not in the big box pet stores. You can also find a selection online.

    1. Cooked, balanced homemade diet. It’s the same diet found in number 1, above, except that it’s cooked. This means some of the nutrient composition has been diminished through processing.
    2. Human-grade canned food. If the label doesn’t say the ingredients are human grade, they’re not. Pet food made with human-grade ingredients is also a great deal more expensive, so that’s another way to tell what you’re getting.

This type of diet is the most expensive you can feed your pet. What I tell my clients is, “If you have more money than time, you can purchase human-grade canned food for your dog or cat. But if you have more time than money, I recommend you make a balanced, homemade diet right in your own kitchen for a fraction of the cost.”

    1. Human-grade dry food. As I discussed earlier, dry food is not as species-appropriate as a moisture-dense diet. Human grade is very important because the food is approved, in theory, for human consumption, which means it doesn’t contain low quality rendered by-products.
    2. Super premium canned food which can be found at big box pet supply stores like Petco and PetSmart.
    3. Super premium dry food.
    4. Veterinary-recommended canned food. Vet recommended canned foods are purchased at your vet’s office or clinic. Typical brands are Science Diet, the Purina veterinary lines, Royal Canin and Waltham.
    5. Veterinary-recommended dry food.
    6. Grocery store brand canned food.
    7. Grocery store brand dry food.
    8. Semi-most pouched food.

The reason this type of pet food is so far down the list is because in order for the food to remain “semi-moist,” an ingredient called propylene glycol is added. This is a scary preservative that is a second cousin to ethylene glycol, which is antifreeze. And while propylene glycol is approved for use in pet foods, it is unhealthy for dogs and cats. I do not recommend feeding any food that contains this additive.

    1. Dead last on the list and the worst thing you can feed your pet is an unbalanced, homemade diet – raw or cooked. I’m seeing an increasing number of misguided pet owners in my practice who think they’re doing the right thing by serving their pet, say, a chicken breast and some veggies and calling it a day.

Yes, the food is homemade, but it’s nutritionally unbalanced. Pets being fed this way are showing up at my clinic with endocrine abnormalities, skeletal issues and organ degeneration as a result of deficiencies in calcium, trace minerals and omega fatty acids.

From Worst to Best in a Heartbeat

For those of you who now know you’re feeding your pet an unbalanced, homemade diet, there’s an extremely quick and easy way to soar to the top of the list.

All you need to do is add ingredients to balance out the nutrition in the diet you’re already serving your dog or cat. This is a fast, simple fix you can apply to turn an unbalanced homemade diet into a balanced one.

So there you have it – the entire list of my recommendations for best-to-worst pet diets.

If you’ve discovered your pet’s food is on the lower half of the list, set a goal to work your way up the list.

If you’re already at the top end of the list, congratulations! You’re doing the best thing possible by providing species-appropriate nutrition for the animals in your care

If you would like to learn more about making homemade meals for your pets, my recipe book is available here

Dr. Becker is the resident proactive and integrative wellness veterinarian of HealthyPets.Mercola.com. You can learn holistic ways of preventing illness in your pets by subscribing to MercolaHealthyPets.com, an online resource for animal lovers. For more pet care tips, subscribe for FREE to Mercola Healthy Pet Newsletter.

 

 

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Personal Note from Val Heart About Divorce, Separation and Breakup

From Val:  I am SO excited to bring Steven May and Davit T Pisarra’s important work to you.  Everyone goes through relationship hell at some point – it’s important to be prepared and to safeguard your furrkids as well as your children.

I’ve been divorced too, but fortunately I knew how to communicate with our cats so they had a voice in the process and they stayed safe, sane and as happy as possible.  Do you have a plan that helps ensure their needs are met, that they don’t get sick or neglected (or hurt), and that they have a voice in what happens to them?  After listening to our chat, you will be better prepared on all accounts.  Enjoy!

<><><><><>

Pet expert Steven May and family law attorney and newspaper columnist David T. Pisarra are the co-authors of the first book that explores a dilemma facing an increasing number of pet parents each year.

In the case of a divorce, separation or break-up – who gets the dog?

“What About Wally – How To Co-Parent A Pet With Your Ex” is part How-To and part How-Not-To guide into the realities of this potentially traumatic issue. Practical legal advice and thoughtful dog behavior guidance sit alongside heartwarming real life stories and personal anecdotes from the authors own experiences in co-parenting a pet with their ex’s.

Our relationships with our pets have changed and they’re now more a part of the family than ever before. We know the pain that many children go through when their parents are divorcing and it’s similar for our pets. By taking the steps to make sure the transition is as smooth as possible, both the pet and the pet parents benefit.

You won’t want to miss the answers to these questions:

* How are dogs viewed by the courts in a divorce?
* How to I protect myself if I want custody or joint custody of the dog?
* Are their similarities in divorce court between pet parents and the parents of children?
* Why is co-parenting good for the dog?
* Are dogs affected by their owners divorce?
* What are some steps to make the transition as smooth as possible for the dog?

To pick up a copy of “What About Wally?” go to www.whataboutwally.com. For great pet parent tips join 94,000 other pet owners and visit Steven May’s Facebook page – The Daily Growl.- www.facebook.com/epetexpert

Click here to download

Click here to get your copy:

 
I realize this blog post has a gruesome subject but knowing this stuff is better than remaining unaware.
Andy Lewis reveals to you statistics about canine death rates & then show you how they
link to the food your dog(s) may be eating.
But before I do, it’s important you see the video, now viewed by 1,102,546 shocked
dog owners:
AND
read the disturbing report here, read by over 5,354,931 shocked dog owners
The Three Leading Causes of Death in Dogs are:
1. Cancer
2. Heart Disease
3. Kidney Disease
This is how they link to ‘s diet..
1. Cancer: The chemicals & preservatives used in many commercial dog foods are known to cause these cancers..
- Kidney cancer
- Bladder cancer
- Skin cancer
- Stomach cancer
- Spleen cancer
- Leukemia
The same cancer-causing chemicals & preservatives have been banned from use in human foods because of these known problems…but continue to be used in ‘s food.
2. Heart Disease: The high proportions of cheap unhealthy fats found in many commercial dog foods cause arteriosclerosis and arterial blockages resulting in death by heart attack.
But also, the lack of more expensive omega-3 essential fatty acids (EFA) also causes canine heart failure because without omega-3, ventricular arrhythmias occur and can result in sudden death.
3. Kidney Disease: An 11-year study of acute renal failure in dogs concluded 45% of cases are caused by toxins and 35% by infectious disease.
In the US, April-May 2007, over 2200 dogs died in a 3-week period from poisonous toxins found in the commercial dog foods they ate.
And nutritionally inadequate diets lead to defective adrenal glands unable to manufacture adequate cortisol, a hormone vital for health and resistance to infectious disease (Dr. Alfred Plechner DMV).
If you feed commercial dog food, than consider very carefully the possible consequences.
I never did, and my dog Noble, died. Many owners ignored my warnings back in 2006 and were
devastated by the Dog Food Scandal of 2007.  (Yes, I’ve been doing this for a long time!)
But the good news is, the many thousands that listened and took our advice, followed our
guidelines still have healthy dogs today.
As you can see by the sheer number of people viewing Andrew’s video and report this is a topic that is important to millions of dog owners.  Please take the time today to watch Andrew’s video!

I realize this blog post has a gruesome subject but knowing this stuff is better than remaining unaware.

My friend Andy Lewis has put together critical information that every dog (and cat) owner needs to know so I’m glad to share it with you today.

He reveals the statistics about canine death rates & then shows you how they link to the food your dog (or cat) may be eating.

It’s important you see the video, now viewed by 1,102,546 shocked dog owners, and read the disturbing report here, read by over 5,354,931 dog owners that Andrew has created.

See them now and then come back here to continue…

Andrew’s findings:

The Three Leading Causes of Death in Dogs are:

1. Cancer

2. Heart Disease

3. Kidney Disease

This is how they link to your dog’s diet..

1. Cancer: The chemicals & preservatives used in many commercial dog foods are known to cause these cancers..

- Kidney cancer

- Bladder cancer

- Skin cancer

- Stomach cancer

- Spleen cancer

- Leukemia

The same cancer-causing chemicals & preservatives have been banned from use in human foods because of these known problems…but continue to be used in Fido’s food.

2. Heart Disease: The high proportions of cheap unhealthy fats found in many commercial dog foods cause arteriosclerosis and arterial blockages resulting in death by heart attack.

But also, the lack of more expensive omega-3 essential fatty acids (EFA) also causes canine heart failure because without omega-3, ventricular arrhythmias occur and can result in sudden death.

3. Kidney Disease: An 11-year study of acute renal failure in dogs concluded 45% of cases are caused by toxins and 35% by infectious disease.

In the US, April-May 2007, over 2200 dogs died in a 3-week period from poisonous toxins found in the commercial dog foods they ate.

And nutritionally inadequate diets lead to defective adrenal glands unable to manufacture adequate cortisol, a hormone vital for health and resistance to infectious disease (Dr. Alfred Plechner DMV).

If you feed commercial dog food, than consider very carefully the possible consequences.

Andy never did and his dog Noble, died. Many owners ignored the warnings back in 2006 and were devastated by the Dog Food Scandal of 2007.  (Yes, Andy’s been doing this for a long time.)

But the good news is, the many thousands that listened and took his advice, followed his guidelines still have healthy dogs today.

Andrew Lewis, author of Dog Food Secrets – Get your copy today!

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